Escentric Molecules owes its
existence to an aroma-molecule that does not exist in nature. Iso E
Super was created in a laboratory at IFF in 1973. It remained unknown
outside the world of perfumery until the launch of Escentric Molecules,
though its elusive presence hovers at relatively low concentrations in
the background of many fragrances for both men and women. Among
perfumers, it is prized for its velvety, cocooning effect.
When
perfumer Geza Schoen first smelt Iso E Super in isolation, something
clicked. “I realised that the common denominator in all the fragrances I
liked was that they contained a large dose of it. Iso E Super is highly
unusual. You can never get enough of it. One sniff and you want the
whole bottle. It’s like a drug.”
Schoen began to experiment,
creating fragrances that contained Iso E Super in unheard-of
proportions. One night he went further. Heading out for a drink with a
friend, he suggested they spritz on nothing but the aroma-molecule
itself.
The effect was immediate. No sooner had they sat down at a
bar, than a woman came up to ask about their fragrance. As Schoen
talked with her, it became clear that the connection between the
fragrances she liked was also a large dose of Iso E Super. Schoen
realised he was on to something.
His proposal was bold. He would
create two fragrances in homage to this enigmatic attractant. One
fragrance would contain an unprecedented 65% of the molecule. The rest
of the formula would consist of ingredients designed to underscore its
low-lit mood.
If this was a radical move, the second fragrance
was totally non-conformist. It would contain only the molecule Iso E
Super. “I thought, this one will appeal only to the artists, the freaks,
the outsiders.”
He was wrong. From its launch in 2006, Escentric
Molecules was a phenomenon. Schoen followed the first pair of
fragrances, 01, with 02, 03, 04, and in 2020, a fifth pair, Escentric
Molecules 05. Each pair focuses on those rare aroma-molecules that have
the radiance and depth of character to stand alone.
